The Fool design inspirations came from random sources, for example paintings in the Tate Modern. Ruti and Myrna would turn a shape around, a blouse, a skirt, a sleeve to see what else it could be, not being bound by strict rules of design. Often their misunderstandings of each other's ideas led to new brilliant designs which they were certain would sell. They had contact with formally trained pattern cutters who would insist that strict rules had to be obeyed for example a pocket MUST be a set size and set position on the garment!
"We got special permission as designers from The V&A Costume department as well as from The Bath Costume Museum to inspect carefully wrapped clothes to protect them as some of them were about 100 years old", Myrna.
The Fool designs were also inspired by a marvellous book Costume Patterns And Designs as well as Medieval tabard styles and Victorian ways of fastening a, of course, never had zips.
The Fool design concepts - We made one size fits all without using zips
Ruti - I knew about sewing from watching my mum making clothes when we were younger. I used to make my own clothes.by adapting ready made patterns to my own design ideas. Myrna didn’t have had any experience of that but from her fine art studies she had design ideas of shapes, and balance.
Myrna and I started off by making designs based on circles and squares and when we ran out of ideas we both did a pattern making course and we learned to the basics of making a block pattern. We were inspired by designer Jean Muir, cutting fabric on the bias which allowed for different sizes as it gives a stretch to the design. We didn’t want to use zips we used rouleau and tie fastenings instead.
We worked together designing and making women’s clothing for about 15 year. Then over the years we worked on various other creative projects.
The Fool designs
Yvonne - The Fool was there at the right time with amazing designs, no set in sleeves; every item they made was one size, no small medium or large. Everything was in straight lines, diagonal or bias cut so it was easy to train somebody. I took on a young girl called Eileen to train her, she would do all the straight lines with lace on about 8 rows of different fabrics and I would finish the skirt with more complex sewing. I did like their clothes.
I loved working for The Fool as they were a great bunch of girls. I worked a few Saturday for them in Camden Lock market where they had a stall.
The Fool - Lucky finds
We had luck many times when we went to the East End of London when we went into old shops and found treasures which the shopkeepers rate at all. Once we found loads of lace fabric with the Coronation on it and other really old lace.
The Fool - It was a very macho era
Myrna - When we went to wholesalers to buy fabric or trimmings or lace we got very rude and dismissive attention as we didn’t look like what designer should look like until they realised that we were going to buy a lot of things and offered us a chair or a cup of tea. Sometimes we walked out of the place holding up a wad of money, as we were angry that a manager or boss had followed us around the shop as though we were thieves.
Men mainly ran the wholesalers felt free to make sexual innuendo to both of us at any time and they would try and lightly touch us. it was the norm of the time. We learnt how to handle it and learnt how to banter back to make sure they weren’t too cheeky with us.
The Fool at the markets
Every Saturday and Sundays no matter the weather Ruti and Myrna sold the dresses in Camden Lock market and Portobello Road market. They had to get other people to sell for them as well. Aury delivered the clothes, rails and covers then when trading stopped he came and brought everyone and the whole lot back.